Cosmetic Formulation: Shimmering Body Oil with Sun Protection

During the summertime, humans are significantly exposed to sunlight. To prevent photocarcinogenesis, photoaging, and other skin abnormalities, sunscreens are introduced to the market. It is important to mention that these products should provide protection against both ultraviolet A (320–400 nm) and ultraviolet B (290–320 nm) radiation (1).

In this formulation video, I have included sun filters for broad-spectrum sun protection. Let me introduce you to all the ingredients used in this beautiful body oil.

  1. The equipment needed:
    • 2 Glass beakers
    • Spoon and whisk
    • Precision balance
    • Cosmetic bottles
  1. Phase A: Measure the components required for phase A in a glass beaker.

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Polar emollient exhibiting excellent spreading properties and leaving a delicate sensation.

It is an ester* derived from benzoic acid and C12-15 alcohols**.

To reduce hydrolysis*** reactions, it is advisable to protect it from heat and moisture sources.

It is a clear liquid, insoluble in water.

When the temperature drops below -12°C, it solidifies into a wax (2).

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

(or Avobenzone)

An oil-soluble UV-A filter in the form of white crystalline powder. It is suitable for water-repellent and water-resistant formulations (3). In this video, I used a pre-mixed liquid form containing Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate and Ethylhexyl Salicylate.

Since C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is used as a dispersing agent for UV filters and pigments (2), in phase A it solubilizes and boosts Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane performance.

* Esters are a class of organic compounds that are derived from carboxylic acids and alcohols.

** C12-15 alcohols refer to a mixture of alcohols that have carbon chain lengths ranging from 12 to 15 carbon atoms. They are categorized as fatty alcohols due to their long carbon chain in their molecular structure.

*** Hydrolysis is a chemical reaction in which the addition of water breaks down a compound.

  1. Phase B: Measure the components required for phase B in another glass beaker.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

A colourless and odourless liquid emollient that imparts a dry and velvety feel upon application.

It can be incorporated into formulations at levels of up to 100%.

It effectively minimizes oiliness and greasiness.

When utilized in sunscreen products, it maintains the wavelength of maximum ultraviolet absorbance without alteration.

This oil-soluble emollient is versatile, and suitable for use in both hot and cold processes (4).

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

An oil-soluble UVB filter is available in a colorless to yellowish liquid form. It has a specific odor.

It is used in waterproof sunscreens.

Due to its compatibility with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients, it can be easily integrated into various formulations, including lotions, milks, creams, and more (5).

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

An oil-soluble UVB filter without odor.

It has a clear, syrupy and oily appearance.

It is used in waterproof sunscreens.

Due to its compatibility with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients, it can be easily integrated into various formulations, including lotions, milks, creams, and more (6).

Octocrylene

Pale yellow, clear and viscous UVB filter that possesses a characteristic odor.

It is insoluble in water, which makes it an excellent choice for water-resistant sunscreens and an excellent solvent for other oil-soluble UV filters.

However, it is immiscible with propylene glycol and silicone oil (7).

When combined with Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Salicylate acts as a booster (5). Also, Octocrylene has the capability to stabilize Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (7). Using various UV filters in the formulation results in a sunscreen product with higher sun protection.

  1. Phase C: In the mixture of Phases A and B, add Phase C.

Tocopheryl Acetate

A clear, yellow/greenish viscous antioxidant with anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties that result in smooth-feeling skin.

It can be used in a wide range of skincare formulations (8).

Jasmine oil

Fragrance****

Gold sparkles

Sparkles

**** Before selecting a fragrance, it is essential to verify the permissible concentration levels of fragrance oil in accordance with the IFRA (International Fragrance Association) standards.

  1. After the ingredients are combined, pour the mixture into the bottle.
  2. Before usage, shake. Enjoy the final result!

References:

  1. Mancuso JB, Maruthi R, Wang SQ, Lim HW. Sunscreens: An Update. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2017 Oct;18(5):643–50.
  2. Sasol Chemicals. COSMACOL EBL Datasheet [Internet]. UL Prospector. [cited 15 Oct 2023]
  3. Aako BV. AakoSun AVB (Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane) Datasheet [Internet]. UL Prospector. [cited 15 Oct 2023]
  4. Lexol® EHP MB Datasheet [Internet]. UL Prospector. [cited 15 Oct 2023]
  5. Aako BV. AakoSun EHS (Ethylhexyl Salicylate) Datasheet [Internet]. UL Prospector. [cited 15 Oct 2023]
  6. Aako BV. AakoSun OMC (Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) Datasheet [Internet]. UL Prospector. [cited 15 Oct 2023]
  7. Galaxy Surfactants Ltd. GalSORB Octocrylene Datasheet [Internet]. UL Prospector. [cited 15 Oct 2023]
  8. Tri-K Industries, Inc. Vitamin E Acetate Datasheet [Internet]. UL Prospector. [cited 15 Oct 2023]