Collagen: The Key To Youthful Skin

During the pursuit of a collagen-based cosmetic product, it is possible for an individual to have doubts regarding the credibility of certain claims. Within the industry, there exist a multitude of collagen variants, which can be identified on product labels by their International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) names, including but not limited to Collagen, Soluble Collagen, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Atelocollagen, Collagen Extract, Collagen Amino Acids, and Soluble Collagen Crosspolymer.

 Unlock the Power of Collagen

Collagen types I and III are the main components of the skin constituting approximately 85-90% and 10-15% respectively of the whole collagen present. These essential fibrous proteins that provide strength, structure, and elasticity to the skin undergo a reduction in production over time, including other forms of collagen. In an effort to preserve and decelerate the natural degradation process, the cosmetic industry has commercially introduced collagen as an ingredient for use in formulations. Owing to its high molecular weight, insolubility and restricted ability to permeate the deeper layers of the skin, collagen manufacturers have implemented various methods. Among these is the utilization of enzymatic hydrolysis, which results in the breakdown of the collagen into smaller peptides and its introduction in a soluble form. While the hydrolyzed form can to some extent penetrate the epidermis, it can not entirely compensate for the natural degradation process of collagen in the skin. Still, the hydrolyzed form has better properties than native collagen when used topically. Although collagen of marine origin remains the primary source, non-animal collagen has been introduced to improve its contribution as a cosmetic ingredient (1).

Benefits of collagen for cosmetic purposes:

  • Improves skin hydration: It is a natural humectant, providing the skin with a moisturized, smooth, and radiant appearance. Also, it has a beneficial ability to reduce transepidermal water loss by forming a film on the skin (1). 
  • Anti-aging component: increases skin elasticity and firmness (2). 
  • Antioxidant: collagen in the hydrolyzed form has shown an evident reduction in reactive oxidative radical’s activity (2).
  • Enhances wound healing: promising effects of collagen-based hydrogels in wound healing and regenerative medicine (3).
  • Anti-inflammatory properties: the study by Hakuta and colleagues (2017) has provided evidence of the positive impact associated with the topical and oral administration of hydrolyzed collagen tripeptide in atopic dermatitis (4).
  • Protects against UV damage: in vivo study on animals by Fan and colleagues (2013) has shown inhibition of photoaging, which plays an important role in the protection against harmful sun rays (5).

Your Ultimate Topical Skincare Solution

Presently in the market exists a multitude of cosmetic products that incorporate collagen as an active or “branding” ingredient. To differentiate factual information from marketing tactics, it is imperative to meticulously scrutinize product labels and ingredient lists.

The ensuing paragraphs shall deliberate upon the scientific overview of the selected collagen ingredients utilized in cosmetic products.

The cream A

The label of Cream A indicates the presence of two types of collagen: Atelocollagen and Soluble Collagen. As previously mentioned, the process of breaking down native collagen fibers into smaller peptides is employed to confer hydrophilicity, with the possibility of enhancing skin penetration (1). 

SOLUBLE COLLAGEN

Although there is the insufficient available information on the precise size of the peptides utilized in the “Soluble Collagen” present in cream formulations, it is still continuously used in commercial cosmetic products. Also, it is unknown if the soluble form of collagen can evidently penetrate the skin to some extent or not. The only verifiable claim pertains to the effects of skin hydration, which can be also achieved by using other hydrating ingredients in the same product such as glycerin, shea butter, and others in the formulation.

According to the datasheet provided by a cosmetic supplier, “Soluble Collagen” is touted as a highly effective moisturizing and film-forming agent. This, in turn, can contribute to enhancing skin elasticity, mitigating excessive dehydration and ultimately helping reduce the visibility of fine lines and wrinkles (6).

ATELOCOLLAGEN

Atelocollagen is a form of collagen that has undergone a specific process to remove the telopeptides, which are the non-helical regions situated at the ends of collagen molecules (7). This process renders atelocollagen more soluble and easier to utilize in cosmetic applications. Moreover, it exhibits great potential to protect the skin against harmful environmental impacts by forming a film at the skin’s surface (8).

In conclusion, the claims made for Cream A are accurate. It is advertised as a potent moisturizer and hydration agent that, through film formation, can fill in lines and wrinkles, ultimately resulting in visibly smoother and plumper skin over time.

The cream B

Upon initial review, collagen identification as a raw material in the presented ingredient list can be challenging. However, the INCI name that comprises the term “peptide”, specifically palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, is associated with the stimulation of collagen synthesis.

PALMITOYL PENTAPEPTIDE

It is a synthetic compound that has been specifically developed to stimulate collagen production and is claimed to have an anti-wrinkle effect. In a double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face randomized clinical study, significant improvements were observed through quantitative technical and expert grader image analysis, as well as in self-assessment reports from participants. Despite the peptide being used in lower concentrations, significant benefits are observed through the stimulation of the dermal matrix. Therefore, the introduced polypeptide is considered to be highly potent after showing its effectiveness (9).

Furthermore, the study highlighted the effectiveness of combining palmitoyl pentapeptide with niacinamide also known as vitamin B3, which among other positive skin effects improves the skin barrier (9).

Cream B contains both of these significant beneficial anti-wrinkle ingredients, and the “plumping moisture”, “smooth skin’s texture” and “visibly firmer look” claims are in correlation with an evident approach.

The Market Size

As per a recent market research report, the global collagen market was evaluated to reach USD 9.1 billion in 2022 and it is expected to grow at a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 10.2% for the next 8 years. This is associated with the increased use of collagen ingredients in various industries, including the cosmetics industry (10).

References:

  1. Sionkowska A, Skrzyński S, Śmiechowski K, Kołodziejczak A. The review of versatile application of collagen: Versatile Application of Collagen. Polym Adv Technol. 2017 Jan;28(1):4–9.
  2. Avila Rodríguez MI, Rodríguez Barroso LG, Sánchez ML. Collagen: A review on its sources and potential cosmetic applications. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018 Feb;17(1):20–6.
  3. Zhang Y, Wang Y, Li Y, Yang Y, Jin M, Lin X, et al. Application of Collagen-Based Hydrogel in Skin Wound Healing. Gels. 2023 Feb 27;9(3):185.
  4. Hakuta A, Yamaguchi Y, Okawa T, Yamamoto S, Sakai Y, Aihara M, Anti-inflammatory effect of collagen tripeptide in atopic dermatitis. J. Dermatol. Sci. 2017, 88, 357–364
  5. Fan J, Zhuang Y, Li B. Effects of Collagen and Collagen Hydrolysate from Jellyfish Umbrella on Histological and Immunity Changes of Mice Photoaging. Nutrients. 2013 Jan 17;5(1):223–33.
  6. Croda. Collasol™ M PE Datasheet [Internet]. UL Prospector. [cited 10 March 2023]. https://www.ulprospector.com/documents/1506638.pdf?bs=1409&b=707995&st=1&sl=149904761&crit=a2V5d29yZDpbc29sdWJsZSBjb2xsYWdlbl0%3d&k=soluble|collagen&r=eu&ind=personalcare
  7. Gantenbein-Ritter B, Sakai D. Biomaterials for Intervertebral Disc Regeneration. In: Comprehensive Biomaterials [Internet]. Elsevier; 2011 [cited 2023 Mar 10]. p. 161–9. Available from: https://linkinghub.elsevier.com/retrieve/pii/B9780080552941002105
  8. Gfn-Selco. Atecoron Plus® PHE 1.2 Datasheet. [Internet]. UL Prospector. [cited 10 March 2023]. https://www.ulprospector.com/documents/1546608.pdf?bs=3345&b=740340&st=1&sl=149906186&crit=a2V5d29yZDpbYXRlbG9jb2xsYWdlbl0%3d&k=atelocollagen&r=eu&ind=personalcare
  9. Robinson LR, Fitzgerald NC, Doughty DG, Dawes NC, Berge CA, Bissett DL. Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin1. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2005 Jun;27(3):155–60. 
  10. Collagen market size, share & trends analysis report, 2030 [Internet]. Collagen Market Size, Share & Trends Analysis Report, 2030. [cited 2023Mar9]. Available from: https://www.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/collagen-market